AWKWARD ZOMBIE

You might want to go into your Device Manager and make sure that none of the "Universal Serial Bus controllers" are disabled.

they all seem to be enabled

Do any items in the device manager report an error? (Yellow triangle with exclamation point)

Also, how long has the issue persisted?

So I've constructed a newegg thing:
Antec 300 Illusion Black Steel ATX Mid Tower computer case

Acer g206hqlbd Black 19.5" 5ms Widescreen LED backlight LCD monitor

Seagate Barracuda STBD2000101 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s Internal HDD -Retail kit

ASUS M5A 97 R2.0 AM3+ AMD 970 + SB950 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

Rosewill RNX-G300LX Wireless Adapter Card IEEE 802.11b/g PCI Up to 54Mbps Data Rates 64/128bit WEP WPA WPA2 802.1x, 802.11i, AES, TKIP with 2 dBi Antenna

EVGA 02G-P4-3757-KR GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 FTW w/ ACX Cooling Video Card

Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (Orange Heat Spreader) Model TLAD38G1600HC9DC01

AMD FX-6300 Vishera 3.5GHz (4.1GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 95W 6-Core Desktop Processor FD6300WMHKBOX

Rosewill ROCC-12001 AIOLOS 120mm Long Life Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Core i7

CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready

and win 7 home premium

Am I missing anything? do i need a better power supply/fan?

What specifically is the issue? Is it not doing anything at all?

@Zang, you might want to take YCobbs advice and just look for any devices disabled in general (it might be a good idea to check the device manager while the non-working devices are plugged in as well in case they are specifically turned off)

Replace the CPU cooler with a Cooler Master 212 Evo, it's the best one in that price range.
If you actually need wifi, replace the wireless card with one that supports 802.11n at least, like this one.
It's good to have headroom in the PSU department but 750W is too much for your build. You can easily drop it down to 550/600W. 80+ Gold is good, but the energy savings might not actually make up for the extra cost over 80+ Bronze. You could also look for a semi modular PSU instead if you wanna save some cheddar.
The 750 ti is good and has excellent power efficiency but not the best bang/buck. If you can spare a bit more, look for a GTX 660.
That monitor is also not 1080p which I'd recommend if you end up going with a GTX 660.

it's beena bout a week. and yes, some do. windows can't seem to find a solution, or encounters errors when attempting to update drivers.

Seconding all this, but also what do you want the 2TB for? Consider spending a little extra to get 1 TB + 128 GB SSD to negate loading times.

Gotta have that storage when you've got hundreds of gigabytes of uh, family photos and vacation videos.

An SSD becomes increasingly necessary once you get into higher end systems and a regular mechanical HDD becomes more and more of a bottleneck for everyday operations, but I wouldn't call it a priority in a budget build like this. It could be the first thing Runes upgrades later on once he has a bit of extra cash he's willing to spend on his computer. 2tb HDDs have a better price/GB ratio than 1tb ones anyway. On the other hand, 120GB SSDs go for around 80 bucks now, they recently dropped in price again.

But hey, choices. That's what building PCs is about.

I found a 1 TB at Best Buy for hella cheap so i went and got that. Thanks for the input though!

I would really hate to do a hardrive wipe AGAIN, but it's looking that way now

Click those for full size, by the way.

I've got this 1TB external hard drive (A WD brand 4608A, I can't find anything online using those search terms though) that I run a bunch of stuff off of because of how small the internal HD in this computer is. However, it's slow as all hell because all the USB ports on this computer are USB1.0 ports, since my brother picked the only case in the universe that still had those when he was building it.
One of my friends thinks it may be possible to actually crack this thing out of the case and slot it into my computer like a normal hard drive would, thus enabling it to run faster. I believe I have the physical space for it still, but I'm worried it may not fit that way.

If it makes any difference, right now it runs off of a plug into the wall and a USB connection to the computer (via one of these cables)

If not, it's no big deal, my brother is building a new PC soon which means I get his current one with all USB 3.0 ports. Apparently he learned his lesson about how awful out of date technology is. I can probably just shell out the dollars for an actual internal hard drive and then just wait out the transfer when i get that one, since I am not transferring 694 gigs of data over a USB 1.0 connection.

I might be getting a job soon, and if I do, I'm going to save up and build a gaming pc. How much do you guys recommend I should save up? I'll need everything including a monitor (I have a couple spares, but I think they only support like 1360X768 resolution or something like that), OS (not sure whether I want Windows 7 or , and keyboard and mouse. Also, should I go with built in wireless or buy a wireless adapter (would be way too much trouble to set up a wired connection in my room.)? My goal is to be able to run current games at max or near max settings, and for it to be relatively future proofed. So, what's a ballpark estimate of what it should cost? I was thinking 1,000, but idk if the peripherals would make it more than that or what. I don't have a real budget limit, since I'll be saving for a while anyway, but I'd rather it not be over 1,500 I guess. If it can get what I want done for lower though, that'd be better.

EDIT: I'll also need anything that's needed to build one like anti static wrist bands, and whatever tools are needed (I have screwdrivers, but idk what else is needed).

With those requirements, the PC alone will end up costing around $1000, including the $100 copy of Windows. There are ways to get Windows for free, the most legitimate of which is being a university student, but I suppose you would know if that option was available to you. It's always worth it to buy a PCI-E wifi card over a USB adapter, you'll get much more reliable performance. A decent 1080p monitor will cost you about $150. A mouse and keyboard can cost anywhere between $50 and $200+, depending on what features you want. I've personally never used an anti-static wristband, but those cost pennies.

1000$ for the case itself seems to be the best bang/buck pricepoint. How much the peripherals need to cost is entirely up to you, just make sure to get a decent monitor as well, else your graphical prowess is kinda wasted.

I don't know about the wireless thing, but it seems to me built-in should be better, although the antennas usually make the case look quite silly.